Where Rain Met Warmth
Dominique and Gile checking the routes we took.
Vélo Notes
A Stop in Couchey
Monique had planned a visit to her family’s vineyard, and from Gevrey-Chambertin, we pedaled past Fixin. Before long, we reached Couchey—still within the Route des Grands Crus. As we arrived at the gates of the family cellar, we were warmly welcomed. Her family gathered around Monique, while Dominique and I leaned our bikes gently against the wall. The day had been mostly overcast with scattered showers, and just as we arrived, a light rain began to fall again.
We all sat down to taste the family’s wine collection, which is made only for local consumption, not for commercial sale. They were curious about the route we had taken, and our stories flowed as easily as the wine.
Among the wines, we tasted Aligoté—a true hidden gem of Burgundy. Often overshadowed by Chardonnay, Aligoté is lighter, more acidic, and wonderfully refreshing. With notes of lemon, green apple, and white flowers, it’s a wine best enjoyed young. It pairs beautifully with seafood, salads, or simply as an apéritif—especially in a classic Kir, mixed with a splash of blackcurrant liqueur. Simple, honest, and unmistakably Burgundian, Aligoté is a wine worth discovering.
Despite the drizzle, the atmosphere was filled with warmth and laughter. I didn’t speak French and could only catch the occasional word—extraordinaire, magnifique, exceptionnelle—yet I still felt completely at ease. Their eye contact and smiles made me feel like I belonged.
I’ve learned to be comfortable in groups even when I don't understand the language. That day, I found myself zoned in with the rhythm, intonation, and body language. The ryhthm of the language was just like music. Locals often talk fast, and while it might make others feel left out, it’s a challenge not to understand every word, but one I welcome. When I return, I’m even more motivated to continue learning French.
Couchey (koo-shay)is a picturesque village in the Côte-d'Or department of Burgundy, France, known for its deep-rooted winemaking tradition and scenic vineyards. Situated just south of Dijon and close to the famed Côte de Nuits, Couchey is part of the Burgundy wine region, particularly celebrated for producing excellent red wines from Pinot Noir grapes. The village has vineyards classified under the Marsannay appellation, which is unique in Burgundy for allowing red, white, and rosé wines under one designation. Marsannay wines are often described as fresh and approachable, making them a favorite among Burgundy enthusiasts.
Couchey is a small wine-producing village located in the Côte de Nuits, the northern part of Burgundy’s famous Côte d'Or region. Though relatively lesser-known compared to nearby appellations like Gevrey-Chambertin or Marsannay, Couchey shares the same prestigious terroir and contributes to the Marsannay AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée), which includes wines from Marsannay-la-Côte, Chenôve, and Couchey.
Wine Types in Couchey (under Marsannay AOC):
Red Wine (Pinot Noir)
The main grape variety grown in Couchey is Pinot Noir.
These reds are known for their structure, freshness, and finesse, with notes of cherry, raspberry, and earthy undertones.
They can be approachable young but also have aging potential.
Rosé Wine (Pinot Noir)
Marsannay is unique in Burgundy for being the only village-level AOC allowed to produce rosé.
These rosés from Couchey are dry, crisp, and vibrant, often with aromas of red berries and citrus.
They are perfect for warm days and pair well with charcuterie and light dishes.
White Wine (Chardonnay)
Though less common, Chardonnay is also grown in Couchey.
The whites are elegant, mineral-driven, and balanced, with notes of white flowers, citrus, and sometimes a hint of hazelnut.
Couchey’s vineyards benefit from limestone-rich soils and gentle slopes, making it a great area for expressive, terroir-driven wines—especially for those who want to explore Burgundy beyond the big names.
Key Highlights of Couchey
Wine Culture and Vineyards: Couchey is surrounded by vineyards and offers a quintessential Burgundy wine experience, with several small, family-owned domaines producing Marsannay wines. The vineyards are set on gentle slopes that benefit from optimal sun exposure, giving the wines their distinct character.
Cultural and Historical Significance: The village has roots dating back to Roman times, and over the centuries, it has developed a rich winemaking heritage. The charming old stone buildings, wine cellars, and vineyards tell the story of its long-standing connection to viticulture.
Outdoor and Scenic Attractions: Couchey is also a great base for scenic walks and cycling through Burgundy's countryside. The area’s vineyard paths connect Couchey to neighboring wine villages, providing visitors with stunning views of the Burgundy landscape.
The Route des Grands Crus: Couchey lies on this famous wine route, which stretches from Dijon to Santenay. It’s a fantastic way to explore Burgundy’s wine villages and sample local wines directly from the source.